American tourist remembers her time spent at one of Jamaica’s secret gardens more than three decades ago
By Patrick Wagner
Cannabis has long been a central element of Jamaica’s culture, but only recent amendments to the Caribbean nation’s drug laws have decriminalized possession of small quantities of marijuana.
The long-awaited overhaul has opened the door to a lawful medical marijuana industry in Jamaica, as well as provided Rastafari adults the green light to use marijuana for sacramental purposes. The policy changes, implemented in spring 2015, also unearthed fond memories for one American who was welcomed behind the scenes of Jamaica’s cannabis industry as a tourist about three decades ago.
“We used to go to Jamaica every year to get the heck out of Chicago,” Leslie Sherman said, recalling the change of atmosphere from the Windy City’s brutal winters to Jamaica’s tropical beaches.
Sherman was a court reporter in her early 20s at the time. She thoroughly enjoyed the cannabis that was openly sold by just about everyone in the vicinity of Negril Beach Village Resort, she said.
“I think it took about two weeks for it to get out of my system. They would make fun of me at the resort because I would do everything with a spliff in one hand; I’d play volleyball, rode horses,” she says with a laugh. “It was illegal, but on the compound, the resort, no one did anything. Lots of people were smoking there.”
In 2015, the Jamaican Parliament decriminalized cannabis. Adults are now allowed up to five plants per home and possession of up to two ounces. However, in the late 1970s and early 1980s, Jamaica was a vastly different place.
By the third time Sherman and her friends visited Jamaica, they were becoming familiar faces to the locals, she said. One local man in particular was named Royland, but he went by the nickname, “Skunky.”
“He was a marijuana farmer and really a nice guy, very interesting to talk to,” Sherman said.
Over the next few years, Sherman began corresponding with Royland by mail to let him know when she and her friends would plan on visiting. Knowing that the government had placed restrictions on what Jamaicans could purchase, Sherman would bring everything from batteries to Converse tennis shoes for the locals.
In exchange for Sherman’s gifts, Royland traded a bag of locally-grown ganja — an amount no human could consume in two weeks, she said. These exchanges led to an invitation for Sherman and her friends to visit Royland’s farm. While tourists could easily buy marijuana, few had the opportunity to see where it was grown and the steps that were taken to cultivate the locally-beloved herb.
Just getting to the farm was an endeavor in itself, an arduous journey that took several hours to complete, Sherman said.
“We ended up crossing a body of water in a dug-out canoe,” Sherman said. “We crossed this field with bulls in them and he picked up this big stick and yells at them while we’re crossing this field so the bulls don’t approach us.
“We had to cross a big area that was very muddy and Royland would be telling us to step on the base of the plants so we don’t sink in the mud,” she said. “The edges of the grass were really sharp and you’d end up getting little micro-cuts all over your legs.”
While traveling through the area, Sherman said Royland would make noises into the bush and hidden people in the distance would make noises in response.
“There were people out there keeping guard and you’d have to be someone they know or they’ll stop you,” Sherman said. “You’re not just going to be able to wander in there.”
In the big open area at the base of the farm were the remains of airplane taxis that had crashed across the island. Royland and his fellow farmers had scavenged the airplanes and converted various parts to be used for drying racks and other growing equipment.
“He really knew what he was doing. It was a lot of work,” she said. “He made sure it was irrigated, and pruned the plants. I mean he really did know what he was doing and his stuff was wonderful.”
She remembers Royland’s house being very small, and he kept a couple large, heavy cardboard drums from which he’d pull out giant handfuls of untrimmed cannabis.
“It was so sticky that it would stick to your fingers as you’re cutting it and separating it,” Sherman said. “They had really sticky stuff. I loved it.”
Sherman only recalls fond memories of her time in Jamaica. But she was as surprised as anybody that the laws would shift in favor of legalization in such a restrictive country. The Jamaican government eventually closed off many beaches to segregate the local residents from tourists.
“(Royland) told us about the government and it all sounded very sad and restrictive and so limited,” Sherman said.
“I remember coming home the first time and passing through immigration and the guy looks at me and he says, ‘Did anyone offer to sell you pot while you were there?’” Sherman said. “I looked him right in the eye and I said, ‘Everyone!’”